That's right...

Korean barbecue + Argentine beef = wonder and joy. 

BA Street Art

Arte a la Malba

The Malba is a modern art museum that features works by Latin American artists. It's small enough to see in just a couple of hours, which is always nice, and it's housed in a lovely building with lots of light and a couple of outdoor spaces.

At the moment, their featured artist is Marta Minujin, an Argentine who has been working prolifically since the 1960's. A lot of her work has involved audience participation and been done on a grand scale, like a replica of the famous Obelisco of Buenos Aires covered in loaves of sweet bread which was unveiled and then dismantled, with all the loaves of bread given away to the viewers.

I first saw her on an episode of Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations (The Argentina episode). She talked about using food in her art because then people can participate in the piece by eating it and then shitting it out (her words), and so the art itself is just a moment in time that goes the same way everything else does. It was a very comprehensive exhibit with pieces from different periods in her life, including a replica of a bedroom with a live couple laying in bed and a room built of mattresses, plus many of the sketches and models she made for her larger structures.

Sadly I have no photos, but there is plenty of information to be had on the internet, including her own website, and of course Wikipedia.

Seeing this exhibit was really exciting and inspiring in many ways. Though I'm not (yet) a world-renowned artist creating massive public works, I feel encouraged to look for my own ways of playing with the world around me. And when I feel sad that life is so inconstant and that the world is always changing, I hope I'll remember that eventually everything gets eaten and shit out, but there is always more beauty to be found and created. Who's to say that cooking and sharing a meal with a few friends isn't just as monumental as a Statue of Liberty covered in strawberries? After all, they both end the same way.

Rainy Day in BA

I love seeing what rainy days are like in other countries, and it's a good excuse to be lazy! The sun is back out though and I'm off to see some South American art at the Malba.

I'm in Argentina! And it's summer!

Last Meal in Paris: Chartier

Aujourd'hui, c'est un jour triste. I leave Paris bright and early tomorrow morning, and I'm finding it very hard to leave. Not least because I hate packing and have accumulated a number of new things to stuff into the same amount of space. But I will definitely miss this lovely city, especially now that the Christmas lights have gone up and I've finally learned how to dress for the weather.

Despite a frustrating case of jet lag, I've managed to do a lot of touristy sight seeing while still feeling like a local who lives in a fabulous apartment, (almost) seamlessly manages the Metro, shops for local produce at the Bastille market, and (gasp!) cuts in line. I've even had an almost complete conversation in French with a real French person. It's been très cool.

So for my final dinner, we couldn't do anything but have a delicious French dinner at a bustling brasserie just a short walk down our narrow, cobblestone street. Chartier was the perfect fit; an historic restaurant in a beautiful old building, it was a memorable Parisian dining experience and a wonderful way to close out my trip.

Mes amis!

Blanquettes de Veau à l'Ancien. I'm so sorry baby cow! You were delicious, but I'll probably never do this again.

The one that got away...

Poire Melba Chantilly. Oh my.

The waiters write your orders on the table and the bill from memory. No calculators, either.

Au revoir, Paris! I'll miss you terribly! But I don't doubt that I will be back, and next time I'm bringing melatonin supplements (for the jet lag).

Paris: a New Visitor Arrives!

After our triumphant return from Brugge, I got a good night's sleep and left bright and early to pick up our friend Tanya at the airport. Our ride back into the city was much less crowded than it was on my arrival, which meant having to deal with fewer snarky complaints in French about the size of our luggage. Lucky Tanya.

Tanya did much better than I did on my first day, and after a brief respite at home, we ventured out to see the city. We made our way first to La Bourse, which is like the financial center, and where there is a little street market with lots of produce, dairy, and food stands. We decided to start our day with hot, crispy sandwiches of merguez, a spicy Moroccan lamb sausage, grilled onions, and cheese. They were delicious, but left our mouths and fingers coated in bright red grease that our one napkin couldn't completely manage.



We discovered a beautiful new plant next to the city library, and I had to resist the temptation to nibble on the brightly colored berries.


We stumbled upon a lovely garden at the Palais Royal (I think. Near there at least), where in typical tourist fashion we disturbed the people sitting quietly in the afternoon sun with our oohs and aahs, camera shutters, and maps.


We wandered over to the Louvre and into the Jardin des Tuileries, which is beautiful even in late fall. Only half the trees had started giving up on their leaves so there was still much greenery, and even more people out to enjoy the day. We stopped and sat for awhile at a fountain full of ducks and seagulls, but had to leave when they all started flying around in flocks above our heads, endangering our outfits and hygeine.


We walked the whole length of the park, and then made our way down to the Seine. The water was only slightly murky, despite the recent rains, and it was surprisingly clean! We couldn't have asked for a nicer walk; there was no wind, and even though the sky was filled with dramatic clouds, the sun seemed to be out the whole time and we never felt any rain.


We found some hooks to play on. Any thoughts as to what these are? Places to tie boats when the river has risen? Old horse/carriage lockups? Whatever they were, we wanted pictures. Tanya posed very gracefully:


I, just slightly less so:


And then OH MY GOD I ALMOST FELL INTO THE SEINE!!


Just kidding. There were some big steps leading down to the water. The policemen on the boat in the background were completely unconcerned, but a passerby stopped and said, "Nice shot."